All Posts in Rambling on Fashion

May 5, 2010 - 6 comments

I con, because I can

3701484881_3b8b600205_o Lisa Fonssagrives

 

Yesterday a tweet by an esteemed blogger, read

'Can we please find an alternative to "icon"/"iconic" when discussing anything fashion-related? Not everyone has "iconic" style!'

Provoked, as I  usually am by her intelligent reflexions, I had to respond to this, with a post ...

It was as if she had read my mind...I have already ranted about the misuse of the word Couture...but I'm afraid it is not alone in the long list of abused words that seem to attribute things that are further away from what these should be defining in the first place....

According to Merriam-Webster

ICON

Variant(s): also ikon \ˈī-ˌkän\
Function: noun
Etymology: Latin, from Greek eikōn, from eikenai to resemble
Date: 1572

1 : a usually pictorial representation : image
2 [Late Greek eikōn, from Greek] : a conventional religious image typically painted on a small wooden panel and used in the devotions of Eastern Christians
3 : an object of uncritical devotion : idol
4 : emblem, symbol <the house became an icon of 1960's residential architecture — Paul Goldberger>
5 a : a sign (as a word or graphic symbol) whose form suggests its meaning b : a graphic symbol on a computer display screen that usually suggests the type of object represented or the purpose of an available function.

 

And as I write this post I just heard someone describe a highstreet mass produced dress with rhinestones as....VINTAGE!!..

 

March 12, 2010 - 9 comments

‘DO RE MI’……fashion weeks

A week ago a very good friend ,who is making her way into  ' the industry', asked me what trends did I think were going to be strong next season.

As a  keen observer and participant of what has been going on......I decided to do a round up of what I think has defined the past few weeks in fashion.

Paulette Goddard

  
 1. Social media is here to stay  

 Twitter, blogs and live online presentations have globalised the 'show' experience and brought the designer closer to the public.  I was an initial sceptic, but my opinion instantly changed when I saw the first live streamed show on the LFW website. 

Taviforpop
Tavi for Pop Magazine via Very very beautiful 

2. Bloggers claim front row territory. 

 Tavi, Susie Bubble  and other bloggers have managed to  breakthrough a hierarchical, inflexible and slightly archaic 'media' industry, claiming their undisputed influence and place  in the fashion world.

Lots of filtering still required but they are here to stay too!

 

Celine-aw10-11

Celine AW10 via Fashionista
 

3. Trend 'numero uno': Fabric over adornment

For the first time in many seasons we see the return of beautiful, unpretentious and incredibly well cut garments. The attention goes from adornment to the essence of the pieces. Those who mastered this: Prada, Dries and the most talked about and probably influential collection of the season Phoebe Philo's range for Celine.

I would like to see high street attempt copying this trend.  

It 'ain't' possible my friend

Cashmere/wool is cashmere/wool and to buy exquisite Italian mill quality you are talking around €100 to €300 a mtr ...or more....try doing a fabulous coat in a wool polyester mix with 1% cashmere...don't be fooled it WILL look cheap...and adornments to make it look expensive...are NOT WELCOME!! 

 4. Trend 'numero dos'...Fur

PETA's terribly managed campaigns have seen very little compassion in the hands of designers this season. Fur has been present in far too many shows. As an animal lover I hope this trend doesn't permeate commercially and just stays on the catwalk where it shouldn't have appeared in the first place.

5. Colours.....Earthy earthy earthy. WHITE, black and grey

6. And this season's crown goes to....ALEXANDER MCQUEEN... if there is anything that has been of any significance this season it has been the absence of Alexander McQueen. I still get teary writing about it...it is such a loss! But as many very talented creators he left us at his peak and with the most extraordinary collection which was shown in an intimate 'modest' presentation (for McQueen standard) but which clearly showed how his mastery was unquestionable, no matter where or how it was presented. 

The debate continues if he may or may not  have been a genius...

Am101
Am103
Am106
Am105

Photographs via Style Zeitgeist

 

in my books he certainly is.
   

 

February 16, 2010 - 4 comments

Happenings

Dior dog 
LouiseDahlWolfe Photograph by Louise Dahl-Wolfe

 

 

What a terrible week.

There is no hiding my sentiment, and I have bored you all about this already, regarding the passing of McQueen. I'm not sure why I have been so affected by it, but losing a dear friend several years ago in the exact same manner has brought up ghosts of the past which have to be dealt with.

It's as if someone has ripped my heart out and turned my brain into mushy peas. I can't think and the headache is permanent

Travelling to London the day after the news, and it was miserably cold and wet, didn't help escape the moment. He was on the cover of every single paper, on the news on the Express train to Paddington and every conversation I over heard was talking about him.

I did go from fabric shop to fabric shop listening to personal stories of a young and determined McQueen, breathless, running around looking for fabrics. It was meaningful to be in London that day. And although sad I'm glad I was there

On a complete different note, yesterday, as I walked the dog, a wonderful 6 or 7 month old boxer puppy came out of nowhere and joined us for a couple of hours of play.

When it was time to go I didn't have the heart to leave her behind in the park, on her own. Incredibly thin she jumped into my car and we drove her to the vet to check her micro chip...the bad news is some irresponsible owner had not fulfilled their duties of doing this . Leaving me with this adorable dog and no where to find her owner.

I printed posters, drove around and went to the same park several times. No sign of owner.

She stayed the night, but I live in a tiny apartment and all I can say is that no one slept well last night.

This morning I drove her to the pound. I cried the 40 minute journey there and the 40 minute journey back. If I had a garden I would have kept her.

I would like to scream at her owner  for not being responsible enough to microchip her. I wouldn't be so upset and the poor dog wouldn't be freezing out in the cold now.

To end this moan on a lighter note..it turns out I will be going to Paris after all...

January 3, 2010 - 11 comments

Who, when and why?? Another rant about my wonderful fashion world..

I could use all my fingers and most of my toes to count the years I've worked in the fashion industry. 

My mother reminds me of events in the past that only confirm that it was a path I was destined to follow. (At the age of three I teared a dress off because it wasn't to my liking)...stubborn and determined..not much has changed..

Fur coat on beach alfredeisenstaedt
 Alfred Eisenstaedt

I have written before about my incompatability and disagreement with many of the industry's manners and games. 

There is a basic logistical issue which I simply can't get my head around and have debated with many as to who, when and why did the season deliveries become a reflection of the lack of commonsense that my industry seems to operate by...

Last year one of my Japanese buyers asked for a Winter delivery in May!

I wasn't surprised as it just seemed like the next step in the ladder,  and in this business... the higher you go up the retail end, the earlier the delivery should be....even though you end up delivering 100% handknitted cashmere to New York in June.

Since August, I have become a retailer myself so for the first time I can experience and act on what it is pe0ple want...

Today is the 3rd of January, it's snowing and probably -3 degrees Celsius (26 Fahrenheit). I anticipate I will not sell a bikini in the shop until April..and what is flying out the door??...knitwear, coats and anything waterproof or thermal...

If I follow the industry standard I should be 'in sale' when the consumer requires my product the most... and I should be holding Spring Summer stock since the end of November....absurd absurd absurd..

I think for too many years the industry has been bullied by  financial advisers and bankers with their computer charts and excel sheets  instead of following the customer's real wants and needs... 

Commonsense and fashion may not go hand in hand but I am determined to continue my 'war dance' through this circus and just hope the gods will listen.....